page 22
Day 12-Wednesday, June 6 1979
We prepared for the day's activity by stopping at the Naval Base cafeteria for hearty breakfast after which we drove the few miles to Pompeii.
Outside the walls of the ancient city we found a parking lot and paid the attendant to watch the VW. Immediately our way was blocked by a little old Italian woman who, carrying a tray filled with souvenirs, tried to entice us into buying a trinket from her. Realizing her attempts were futile, she smiled broadly as she pressed tiny religious medals into my hands and the hands of the boys saying, "For you. You keep. Now go see Pompeii. Remember me after you come out."
Pompeii……You can almost feel the presence of disaster as you walk the paved streets of the excavated, well-restored city. The streets are paved with large stone blocks, lined with high pavements and supplied at the main intersections with stepping stones. These crosswalks for pedestrians did not interfere with the passage of high-axled chariots. Here Mt. Vesuvius destroyed and covered the city with volcanic ash in the year 79 A.D.
Al, using a guide book, led us from one street to another pointing out things of interest. He told us that the city had been well supplied with public conveniences. Lead water pipes found everywhere attested to the fact that all but the very humblest houses were supplied with water. The public baths had radiant heating and elegant stuccoed vaults with separate sets of rooms for men and women.
Pompeii covered 161 acres, boasted a population of about 30,000 and flourished as a popular resort city for the wealthy. As we walked through some of the larger houses, we viewed the ruins of indoor patios, gardens and remarkable frescoes, imaging life as it was lived here before the catastrophe. Colorful painted signs and notices on houses and shop fronts are protected now by glass and awnings.
Although it was extremely hot, we climbed the ancient steps to the top of the Amphitheater, one of the oldest in Italy, constructed in 80 B.C. Jan and I sat in two of the 12,000 seats near the top overlooking the arena field below trying to visualize the gladiator's victories, losses, and popularity with their fans. Per-
page23
haps the heat was affecting me, but I couldn't resist calling out, "Programs, get your program." Then Jan followed with, "Popcorn, peanuts, cold drinks." Other visitors were not nearly as delighted with our sense of humor and gave us strange glances as we giggled and laughed.
Nearby we stood on a slight rise gazing at the Herculanean Gate, the main entrance into Pompeii. Actually there were two gates- one for the humans and a small one for animals.
Going back to the central part of town, we found the Forum which served as a public meeting place and where religious festivals were held. Buildings here included the Temple of Apollo, the Macellum, or market, and the Basilica, which was used for business transactions and the administration of justice.
In the Museum we were interested in exhibits of plaster casts of people and animals found, just as they died, during the excavation of the ruins, as well as stoves, altars, cooking utensils, tools and many accessories of the original Roman life of the city.
After a quick lunch we drove a short distance up winding roads to the base of Mt. Vesuvius and purchased tickets for the ski lift that would whisk us to the rim of the crater.
Never far from the slope below, we ascended slowly sitting sideways, two to a lift, up the lava-laden incline. Gone were the vineyards and orchards thriving on soil refreshed by mineral-rich ash at the lower part of the mountain. Here rock colors ranged from gray to deep purple with scraggy bushes growing alone or in small clusters struggling for survival.
Coming off the lift, guides instructed us to climb a short distance to the top. Suddenly a feeling of other-worldliness took hold of me. For an instant tim seemed suspended. The cone's diameter stretched 2,000 feet across and
page 24
2,300 feet below us. A hazy cloud covered the entire bottom while, from the rock-encrusted sides, steam was vented in ghostly puffs. An acrid odor filled the air, and the shining hot sun bore down on us unmercifully.
We were usher along the rim then led down a path about 50 feet into the cone itself. Standing further down on a ledge, the Italian guide motioned for me to join him. "Mama sit," he instructed, pushing me on a small stone directly behind a much larger one so that from where the rest of the family stood only my head and shoulders were visible. Vapors, blowing in hardy gusts, came from the rock crevices. I was literally sitting in a steam bath! For the amusement of the tourists gathered around, the guide produced an egg, which he had hidden in the crevice, held it up and shouted, "Mama hatched egg."
Saying "Ciao" to the friendly guides, we descended via the ski lift to the souvenir shop at the base of the volcano where we drank volumes of cold drinks and purchased a few mementos before starting back to Carney Park. It was none too soon. As we looked back for a last view at Vesuvius' summit, heavy clouds were closing in making visibility from the top nil.
While the chicken for our supper was roasting on the grill, the boys played putt-putt, I wrote post cards, George relaxed with a can of beer and Jan and Al put on an exhibition frisbee match to the delight of our fellow campers. Later when we had the laundry facilities all to ourselves, we played scrabble (George went to the movie), and took showers as the clothes washed and dried.